“It’s menswear, but I design for humans,” Pharrell Williams said before his debut fashion show as creative director for Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection on June 20, 2023 in Paris. Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Zendaya, Rihanna, Lenny Kravitz, Jared Leto, and more attended the sunset event that was more than a spectacle on the oldest bridge in the City of Light, Pont Neuf, directly across from the Vuitton headquarters. Accompanied by a full orchestra and a gospel choir, stars including Pusha T, Dave, and Stefano Pilati, showcased more than 70 different looks as they strutted the runway.
This moment was as critical for Williams as when he was hired as the creative director following Virgil Alboh’s death. The validity of the appointment was highly debated because Williams is not a formally trained designer. However, this is not his first time designing. Williams co-founded the streetwear brand Billionaire Boys Club with Nigo in 2005. Williams has also collaborated with Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Moncler, and Monyat.
Despite his lack of design experience and formal education, Williams has a unique knowledge across cultures that adds to his ability to produce freshness and keep a house like Louis Vuitton modernized. He is an originator of the street culture and styles that many large fashion houses are nodding at today. In addition, creative direction goes beyond clothes; he makes collections, produces shows, curates an audience, and directs campaigns.
Throughout his debut collection, we see how Williams chose to reimagine the Damier print, one of Louis Vuitton’s signature patterns that dates back to 1889. Williams pixelated the checkerboard print and called it “Damoflage.” This geometric print appeared on trunks, coats, suits, and jackets throughout the collection. An oversized Damier print was also shown on leather bags, trench coats, and motorcycle jackets. The accessories were also captivating, from the infamous coffee cup to the mini Speedy bags and the oversized satchels in bright yellow, royal blue, and burgundy.
While Williams did some reimagining, his collection also featured a motif that is new to Vuitton. American artist Henry Taylor combined the classic LV monogram with the word “lovers,” creating a new motif that was inspired by the “Virginia is for lovers” slogan of Williams’s home state. “LVERS is a state of mind: warmth, wellbeing, and welcomeness,” read the show notes. The LVERS logo was put onto varsity jackets, hats, and other items throughout the collection.
Williams’s confidence exuded throughout the entire night of his debut. He thanked Louis Vuitton CEO Bernard Arnault for trusting a Black man from Virginia with no formal design training and giving him a platform to express his talents. He also expressed gratitude for the massive support from his team at Vuitton and the star-studded audience. He concluded the night by performing with Jay-Z. It is fair to say that Pharrell Williams had a successful debut as head of Louis Vuitton menswear.
